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  <title>decalogue</title>
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  <entry>
    <title>Under the tail of the dragon</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://domesticat.net/2003/01/under-tail-dragon" />
    <id>http://domesticat.net/2003/01/under-tail-dragon</id>
    <published>2003-01-08T04:04:38+00:00</published>
    <updated>2008-02-11T15:14:16+00:00</updated>
    <author>
      <name>domesticat</name>
    </author>
    <category term="decalogue" />
    <category term="dekalog" />
    <category term="movies" />
    <category term="nashville" />
    <category term="photos" />
    <category term="trip" />
    <summary type="html"><![CDATA[<p>The <a href="http://us.imdb.com/Title?0092337">Dekalog</a> (or 'Decalogue', in English):  widely considered to be <a href="http://us.imdb.com/Name?Kieslowski,%20Krzysztof">Krzysztof Kie&#347;lowski</a>'s masterwork, and also one of the most fiendishly difficult sets of films to actually <em>see</em>.  Ten films, each an hour long, one for each of the Ten Commandments.  Screenings are rare, and the DVDs are out of print and hideously expensive.</p>

<p>Until this weekend I have never personally known anyone who had actually <em>seen</em> the Decalogue.  When <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/exterior.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=the%20Belcourt','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: the Belcourt';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">the Belcourt</a> (<a href="http://belcourt.org/">site</a>) announced they'd be screening the Dekalog in December and early January, I decided it was time to remedy this little issue.  (Film buffs are a strange sort.  On drives and over lunches, they swap the names of films and directors like so many trading cards.  Kie&#347;lowski is traded often on the strength of his Three Colors trilogy, but always qualified with "and I've heard the Decalogue is fantastic, but I've never gotten a chance to see it."  I suppose this counts as a pretty spiffy trading card for me.)</p>

<p>Ten films, ten hours, all in the course of one day.  These are my notes from that day.</p>


<p>* * * * *</p>

<p>Sunday.  5 January.  In the lobby, the cushions are <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/pews.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=plush%20velvet%20over%20hardwood','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: plush velvet over hardwood';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">plush velvet over hardwood</a> that could easily qualify as church pews.</p>

<p>There are three of us in the lobby and, unless I am grossly mistaken, I am invisible.  <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/andrew.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=Andrew','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: Andrew';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">Andrew</a>, the ticket-taker-cum-usher with the kind blue eyes, is talking drink prices with the other employee.  I do not know her name, but for some reason I've found myself mentally nicknaming her Andrea.</p>

<p>Names, even fake ones, always help; they serve as shorthand.  She is easier to refer to by a name, any name, rather than saying that she is the one in the quasi-managerial straight black skirt, white tights, and staff shirt, capped off with a pair of mirror-bright Mary Janes that will make her feet ache before the end of the day.</p>

<p>Dinner is done, <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/dinner.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=such%20as%20it%20was','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: such as it was';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">such as it was</a>:  peanut butter and jelly eaten with apple, chips, and Belcourt Coke while sitting on the stoop next to the <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/fire_lane.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=279&amp;title=fire%20lane','photopopup','width=500,height=279,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: fire lane';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">fire lane</a> while staring at my car as it sat, across the street, safely under the tail of the <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/dragons_tail.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=dragon%20mural','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: dragon mural';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">dragon mural</a>.  Somewhere between episodes one and six of the Dekalog, the weather slipped from a breezy, warm afternoon to a chill night.</p>

<p>The wind, in the past six hours, has grown teeth.</p>

<p>This is the first theatre I've ever seen that had marble stands in the lobby for holding flyers.  I have commandeered one to place this notebook upon; the employees have decided their Pez dispensers are far more interesting than the quiet woman with riotous hair camped out on the bench.  After all, I've been here all day.</p>

<p>Campers, they call us, the ones who drive in from out of town or out of state to screen all ten hours of the Dekalog in one day.  </p>

<p>Campers, they call us.  Insane, everyone else calls it&mdash;except for the ones who, like us, have been waiting nearly a decade to see these films, and understand the compulsion to tick these elusive little films off of our to-see lists.</p>  

<p>There have been a small but steady number of viewers slipping in and out of the <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/on_the_left.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=theatre%20on%20the%20left','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: theatre on the left';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">theatre on the left</a>&mdash;possibly the only theatre in America right now where the prevailing question every hour is, "Did anyone bring a copy of the Ten Commandments with them today?"  (My copy was one of the last things I grabbed before leaving the house at nine sharp this morning.)</p>

<p>80 miles per hour gets you to Nashville fast.  The plains slip-slide into hills as you head north, until the slow, sinuous curves of HOV lanes snake you past megamalls, then smaller neighborhoods, until finally you reach the <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/to_the_left.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=artsy%20areas','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: artsy areas';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">artsy areas</a> around Vanderbilt.</p>

<p>I have been snapping photos all day&mdash;enough to guarantee the employees' thinking that the riotous-haired woman is some kind of obsessive shutterbug.  Quite the opposite; I just want to be able to weed through and choose a few <em>good</em> pictures when I get home.  There is so much to remember&mdash;the Jetta parked under the dragon mural, the 1920s <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/projector.jpg&amp;width=450&amp;height=493&amp;title=projector','photopopup','width=450,height=493,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: projector';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">projector</a> next to the theatre I'm spending my day in, the small shops lining the cross street, and the <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/empty_theatre.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=unexpected%20seating%20depth','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: unexpected seating depth';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">unexpected seating depth</a> of the theatre on the left.</p>

<p>I don't know if I'm going to keep these words that I am so hastily scribbling in this notebook, but I do know that my dumping them off onto these pages is allowing me to think more clearly about the movies I've seen so far.</p>

<p>As of this writing, I've seen six of the ten one-hour dramas that comprise the Dekalog.  My traveling companions have repeatedly asked me my thoughts on what I've seen so far, and I think they are puzzled by my lack of answer.</p>

<p>But&mdash;I can scribe it here and reveal it later&mdash;I think I'm seeing something that, less than halfway through the series, is proving to be one of my all-time favorite pieces of cinema.  I already have reasons to want to see the first six again, and I suspect that when I get home, I'll give way to a pipe dream, placing the out-of-print Criterion DVDs of this ten-film series onto a wishlist.</p>

<p>Not that I'll get it.  But a girl can dream.</p>

<p>I say all this even though the films are a little slow in parts; the sheer scope of these films is something I have never before seen in cinema.</p>

<p>Ah.  I have just been pointed out to a casual moviegoer as a 'camper.'  Nice.  I'm earning something along the lines of cinemaphile bonus points ("You drove <em>how</em> far?  You're going to see all ten <em>today</em>?") from random strangers.  Just what my ego needs&mdash;a boost.  Oh dear.</p>

<p>My goodness, he just offered to buy me popcorn from <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/bar.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=292&amp;title=the%20bar','photopopup','width=500,height=292,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: the bar';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">the bar</a>.  A pity I don't like popcorn&hellip;</p>

<p>Ah, my movie-mates are back from their dinner.  Time to close the notebook, cap the pen, and <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/self_portrait.jpg&amp;width=400&amp;height=300&amp;title=return%20for%20episode%20seven','photopopup','width=400,height=300,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: return for episode seven';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">return for episode seven</a>.</p>

<p>Yes, I am insane, but it's why you love me.</p>

<p>Amy</p>


<p>* * * * *</p>


<p>After ten hours of films in Polish, in which I could read none of the signs on-screen, I found myself vaguely surprised to be able to read road signs on the drive home.</p>

<p>We carpooled at half past nine in the morning, and I drove to the theatre.  We did not return to our cars until after 1:30 a.m. the next morning.  I talked incessantly on the drive home, mostly to keep myself awake.  Somewhere past character analysis, plot contemplation, and rants about slow spots in less-favored episodes, we drifted into language discussion.  We realized that none of us could remember if Russian had two or three genders for nouns.</p>

<p>At one a.m., this sort of thing is strangely important.</p>

<p>Will I see these films again?  I don't know.  I doubt it.  This was my chance.  I took it.  After all, sleep deprivation is temporary, but I will be able to say for the rest of my life that I saw the Dekalog.</p>    ]]></summary>
    <content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>The <a href="http://us.imdb.com/Title?0092337">Dekalog</a> (or 'Decalogue', in English):  widely considered to be <a href="http://us.imdb.com/Name?Kieslowski,%20Krzysztof">Krzysztof Kie&#347;lowski</a>'s masterwork, and also one of the most fiendishly difficult sets of films to actually <em>see</em>.  Ten films, each an hour long, one for each of the Ten Commandments.  Screenings are rare, and the DVDs are out of print and hideously expensive.</p>

<p>Until this weekend I have never personally known anyone who had actually <em>seen</em> the Decalogue.  When <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/exterior.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=the%20Belcourt','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: the Belcourt';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">the Belcourt</a> (<a href="http://belcourt.org/">site</a>) announced they'd be screening the Dekalog in December and early January, I decided it was time to remedy this little issue.  (Film buffs are a strange sort.  On drives and over lunches, they swap the names of films and directors like so many trading cards.  Kie&#347;lowski is traded often on the strength of his Three Colors trilogy, but always qualified with "and I've heard the Decalogue is fantastic, but I've never gotten a chance to see it."  I suppose this counts as a pretty spiffy trading card for me.)</p>

<p>Ten films, ten hours, all in the course of one day.  These are my notes from that day.</p>


<p>* * * * *</p>

<p>Sunday.  5 January.  In the lobby, the cushions are <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/pews.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=plush%20velvet%20over%20hardwood','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: plush velvet over hardwood';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">plush velvet over hardwood</a> that could easily qualify as church pews.</p>

<p>There are three of us in the lobby and, unless I am grossly mistaken, I am invisible.  <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/andrew.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=Andrew','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: Andrew';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">Andrew</a>, the ticket-taker-cum-usher with the kind blue eyes, is talking drink prices with the other employee.  I do not know her name, but for some reason I've found myself mentally nicknaming her Andrea.</p>

<p>Names, even fake ones, always help; they serve as shorthand.  She is easier to refer to by a name, any name, rather than saying that she is the one in the quasi-managerial straight black skirt, white tights, and staff shirt, capped off with a pair of mirror-bright Mary Janes that will make her feet ache before the end of the day.</p>

<p>Dinner is done, <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/dinner.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=such%20as%20it%20was','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: such as it was';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">such as it was</a>:  peanut butter and jelly eaten with apple, chips, and Belcourt Coke while sitting on the stoop next to the <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/fire_lane.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=279&amp;title=fire%20lane','photopopup','width=500,height=279,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: fire lane';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">fire lane</a> while staring at my car as it sat, across the street, safely under the tail of the <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/dragons_tail.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=dragon%20mural','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: dragon mural';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">dragon mural</a>.  Somewhere between episodes one and six of the Dekalog, the weather slipped from a breezy, warm afternoon to a chill night.</p>

<p>The wind, in the past six hours, has grown teeth.</p>

<p>This is the first theatre I've ever seen that had marble stands in the lobby for holding flyers.  I have commandeered one to place this notebook upon; the employees have decided their Pez dispensers are far more interesting than the quiet woman with riotous hair camped out on the bench.  After all, I've been here all day.</p>

<p>Campers, they call us, the ones who drive in from out of town or out of state to screen all ten hours of the Dekalog in one day.  </p>

<p>Campers, they call us.  Insane, everyone else calls it&mdash;except for the ones who, like us, have been waiting nearly a decade to see these films, and understand the compulsion to tick these elusive little films off of our to-see lists.</p>  

<p>There have been a small but steady number of viewers slipping in and out of the <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/on_the_left.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=theatre%20on%20the%20left','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: theatre on the left';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">theatre on the left</a>&mdash;possibly the only theatre in America right now where the prevailing question every hour is, "Did anyone bring a copy of the Ten Commandments with them today?"  (My copy was one of the last things I grabbed before leaving the house at nine sharp this morning.)</p>

<p>80 miles per hour gets you to Nashville fast.  The plains slip-slide into hills as you head north, until the slow, sinuous curves of HOV lanes snake you past megamalls, then smaller neighborhoods, until finally you reach the <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/to_the_left.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=artsy%20areas','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: artsy areas';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">artsy areas</a> around Vanderbilt.</p>

<p>I have been snapping photos all day&mdash;enough to guarantee the employees' thinking that the riotous-haired woman is some kind of obsessive shutterbug.  Quite the opposite; I just want to be able to weed through and choose a few <em>good</em> pictures when I get home.  There is so much to remember&mdash;the Jetta parked under the dragon mural, the 1920s <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/projector.jpg&amp;width=450&amp;height=493&amp;title=projector','photopopup','width=450,height=493,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: projector';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">projector</a> next to the theatre I'm spending my day in, the small shops lining the cross street, and the <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/empty_theatre.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=375&amp;title=unexpected%20seating%20depth','photopopup','width=500,height=375,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: unexpected seating depth';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">unexpected seating depth</a> of the theatre on the left.</p>

<p>I don't know if I'm going to keep these words that I am so hastily scribbling in this notebook, but I do know that my dumping them off onto these pages is allowing me to think more clearly about the movies I've seen so far.</p>

<p>As of this writing, I've seen six of the ten one-hour dramas that comprise the Dekalog.  My traveling companions have repeatedly asked me my thoughts on what I've seen so far, and I think they are puzzled by my lack of answer.</p>

<p>But&mdash;I can scribe it here and reveal it later&mdash;I think I'm seeing something that, less than halfway through the series, is proving to be one of my all-time favorite pieces of cinema.  I already have reasons to want to see the first six again, and I suspect that when I get home, I'll give way to a pipe dream, placing the out-of-print Criterion DVDs of this ten-film series onto a wishlist.</p>

<p>Not that I'll get it.  But a girl can dream.</p>

<p>I say all this even though the films are a little slow in parts; the sheer scope of these films is something I have never before seen in cinema.</p>

<p>Ah.  I have just been pointed out to a casual moviegoer as a 'camper.'  Nice.  I'm earning something along the lines of cinemaphile bonus points ("You drove <em>how</em> far?  You're going to see all ten <em>today</em>?") from random strangers.  Just what my ego needs&mdash;a boost.  Oh dear.</p>

<p>My goodness, he just offered to buy me popcorn from <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/bar.jpg&amp;width=500&amp;height=292&amp;title=the%20bar','photopopup','width=500,height=292,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: the bar';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">the bar</a>.  A pity I don't like popcorn&hellip;</p>

<p>Ah, my movie-mates are back from their dinner.  Time to close the notebook, cap the pen, and <a href="#" onclick="window.open('http://domesticat.net/popup.php?z=http://domesticat.net/images/2003/belcourt/self_portrait.jpg&amp;width=400&amp;height=300&amp;title=return%20for%20episode%20seven','photopopup','width=400,height=300,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,scrollbars=no,status=no,toolbar=no,resizable=no,screenx=150,screeny=150');return false" onmouseover="window.status='photo popup: return for episode seven';return true" onmouseout="window.status='';return true">return for episode seven</a>.</p>

<p>Yes, I am insane, but it's why you love me.</p>

<p>Amy</p>


<p>* * * * *</p>


<p>After ten hours of films in Polish, in which I could read none of the signs on-screen, I found myself vaguely surprised to be able to read road signs on the drive home.</p>

<p>We carpooled at half past nine in the morning, and I drove to the theatre.  We did not return to our cars until after 1:30 a.m. the next morning.  I talked incessantly on the drive home, mostly to keep myself awake.  Somewhere past character analysis, plot contemplation, and rants about slow spots in less-favored episodes, we drifted into language discussion.  We realized that none of us could remember if Russian had two or three genders for nouns.</p>

<p>At one a.m., this sort of thing is strangely important.</p>

<p>Will I see these films again?  I don't know.  I doubt it.  This was my chance.  I took it.  After all, sleep deprivation is temporary, but I will be able to say for the rest of my life that I saw the Dekalog.</p>    ]]></content>
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